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Caribbean Coast
Among the many natural blessings afforded Costa Rica, one of its most
priceless and least visited areas is the lush Caribbean coast, an area of
untold natural riches. From the canals of Tortuguero and the multi-colored
sand beaches lined with towering coconut palms, to the rugged mountains of
Talamanca, adventure and discovery await all visitors.
Costa Rica's Caribbean offers a vast variety of outdoor
activities--world-class fishing, hiking, bird watching, horseback riding,
jungle camping, all types of water activities including white water rafting,
ocean and river kayaking, first-class surfing and diving, snorkeling, canoeing
. . . the list goes on. In the Talamanca region add hiking and camping in
uncharted wilderness and visits to various Indian reservations.
The Atlantic slope is a fertile area extensively exploited for agriculture,
horticulture and ranching. However, it is also an area of great biodiversity
which the country is endeavoring to retain through several protected zones.
Perhaps Costa Rica's most well-known area is the northern coast where
Tortuguero National Park and Barra del Colorado Wildlife Refuge protect a vast
alluvial flood plain and the famous canals of Tortuguero. A peaceful boat ride
through these meandering channels reveals an abundance of animal life and a
multitude of birds in the exuberant foliage lining the waterways. The fishing
lodges of Barra del Colorado take advantage of the world-class tarpon fishing
available here. The beach at Tortuguero is the most important nesting site in
the western Caribbean for the green sea turtle. The giant leatherback and the
hawksbill turtles also nest along these shores. You can visit the Caribbean
Conservation Corporation's Natural History Center near the nesting beach to
learn about these ocean giants.
Caribbean capital
Limón, gateway to the Caribbean, is where the cruise ships dock and is the
perfect place to begin exploring. Capital of the Afro-Caribbean culture in
Costa Rica, many of the region's people speak English dialects that have
survived since colonial times thanks to the mountainous natural barriers
between this zone and the rest of the country. Stroll through the city's
central park and see if you can spot the sloths in the trees; relax on
beautiful crescent beaches like Playa Bonita north of the city; visit areas of
historical interest and discover the roots of Caribbean culture.
Off shore from Limón is Isla Uvita, the small island where Cristobal Colón
(Christopher Columbus) anchored during his discovery voyage to this area in
1502. Tours to the island offer ocean kayaking, snorkeling and scuba diving on
a sunken Galleon.
Southward bound
If a stop in Limón produces a little culture shock, it's a good equalizer for
the journey ahead. Following the coastal road south of the city quickly leads
to the laid-back tropics envisioned in dreams. The pace is not hurried here,
nor should it be. There can be no rush to get through this area to . . .
where? This way will take us to the end of the road; and perchance the
beginning of life.
About an hour south of Limón, one kilometer from the Río Estrella bridge, is
Aviarios del Caribe, Costa Rica's newest national wildlife refuge. This
privately operated reserve encompasses more than 104 acres of marshy land
including canals and a lagoon. An early- morning canoe ride through these
serene canals reveals a wealth of animal life. Sloths, river otters,
crocodiles and monkeys are a few of the inhabitants easily spotted in the
area. This refuge, as with most of the Talamanca region, is a birder's
paradise. The owners of the lodge, Luis and Judy Arroyo, and their guests have
identified over three hundred resident and migratory species. The trails along
the canals lead to more discoveries for the naturalist and photographer.
The Talamanca Coast south of Cahuita is the least known but richest part of
this mystical region. Although the Atlantic narrow-gauge railroad connected
Limón to the Central Valley in the 1890s, a highway didn't cut through
Braulio Carrillo National Park to access the area until 1970. But it wasn't
until 1976, when a bridge finally spanned the Estrella River, that a road
connected the villages of Talamanca to the rest of the country.
Sprawling reef, sheltering forests
Limón is the gateway to the Caribbean and Cahuita is the threshold to the
Talamanca Coast. Without electricity until 1976, it is the original laid-back
Caribbean village. Cahuita National Park protects a beautiful stretch of white
sand beach and the only mature marginal reef on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast.
The nearly 600-acre reef has an outer ridge enclosing a lagoon of coral
debris, stands of live coral, patches of sand and prairies of turtle grass, an
important food source for the green sea turtle.
This area lived primarily on farming, fishing and the production of cocoa
until a fungus wiped out the plantations in the 1970s. Bananas have been a
large multi-national business in this zone for many years. Companies have
clear cut thousands of acres of forest and treated the plantations with
chemicals to fight pests and aid banana production. Silt and chemicals in
runoff water have threatened sensitive ecological systems such as the national
park's coral reef. Efforts to prevent damaging erosion and chemical runoff
have had limited success. As costs rise and the world market changes, some of
these plantations are being abandoned. With recent world demand for
chemical-free foods, local inhabitants are seizing on opportunities to grow
bananas again, but in a sustainable, environmentally sane way without
chemicals.
Inhabitants of this area are being given a leg up into the modern era with
help of internationally sponsored projects like NAMASÖL. This project focuses
on many socio-economic and environmental aspects relating to the Indian
Reservations of Talamanca and communities around Cahuita National Park and
Hitoy-Cerere Biological Reserve. Improvements of the local infrastructure,
training in environmental concerns and vocational skills are a part of what
NAMASÖL provides, always working to help the people help themselves.
Half an hour south of Cahuita is Puerto Viejo, where everyone goes to
party--Caribbean style, of course. This lazy village, a center of community
life since the earliest years of this century, was finally electrified in 1987
and had only three phone lines until October of 1996. Puerto Viejo has become
well known by surfers for its fine waves. Long boarders come from all corners
of the globe to challenge the surf at Salsa Brava, literally "Angry
Sauce." At night the disco at Stanford's keeps things lively with plenty
of reggae and other Caribbean beats.
The coral reefs of Cahuita National Park are known by many, as is the
extraordinary surfing available at several points along this southern coast.
But there is much more to do here and local tour operators provide a generous
offering. All manner of water activities including snorkeling and scuba diving
the reefs of Cahuita and Manzanillo are prime options. River kayaking is an
excellent way to probe the interior around Manzanillo. Hikes into the jungle
to visit several Indian Reservations give good insight into indigenous life.
Other pursuits available for the adventurous nature lover include camping in
the jungle near Cahuita and jaunts into primary forest areas like Hitoy-Cerere
Biological Reserve, wading far upriver into the interior where you're as
likely as not to see several varieties of poison arrow frogs (Dendrobates
sp.), as well as dozens of different birds.
Manzanillo is the end of the road and the beginning of many great adventures.
From here you take a boat, a horse, or set off on foot. This area is part of
Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, one of the most scenic regions in Costa
Rica and one rich in flora and fauna. Nearly four hundred species of birds
have been identified in and around the refuge and the only mangrove estuary on
Costa Rica's Caribbean coast is here. Several endangered species such as the
tapir and crocodile find protection in the park. With off-shore diving as good
as any in Costa Rica and enviable weather all year round, Manzanillo is as
close to that lost tropical land of your dreams as you are likely to discover.
More visiting information on Caribbean Coast
Favourites: Volcanoes | Pacific Coast | Caribbean Coast | Canals of Tortuguero | Cerro de la Muerte
Tropical Islands | Cabo Blanco Strict Nature Reserve | Iguana Park
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