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Caño Negro
National Wildlife Refuge
This nearly 10,000 hectare refuge is important as a wintering site for
migrant waterfowl, as well as a year-round habitat for resident wetland
species. From October to April, when the migrant birds are at the refuge, the
variety of species and sheer quantity of individuals creates a spectacle that
even non-birdwatchers will marvel at. Among the many birds usually present
then are: Wood Stork, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Black-necked Stilt, Anhinga,
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Snail Kite, American Widgeon, Northern Shoveler,
and Blue-winged Teal. One species that birdwatchers hope to see here is the
Nicaraguan Grackle, since in Costa Rica it is found only in marshy areas just
south of Lake Nicaragua.
During the winter residents' visit, the habitat at Caño Negro undergoes a
dramatic seasonal change. With the water accumulated in the rainy season, a
shallow lake of some 800 ha. is formed. As the dry season progresses from
December to March, the lake dries up. By April, all that is left is the main
channel of the Río Frio (Cold River).
Getting there: Most of the increasing number of visitors to the area come from
hotels in the San Carlos region and drive to the town of Los Chiles, near the
Nicaraguan border. Here a number of boats are kept at the town dock that can
be hired for the approximately 15-kilometer trip upriver to Playuelas on the
northern edge of the refuge. However, in March 1998, a bridge was completed
across the Río Frio making it possible to drive to the actual village of Caño
Negro. The turn off to the bridge is several kilometers before Los Chiles (at
Jobo?).
An alternative approach is to drive to Upala (especially for those coming from
Guanacaste) and continue east on a gravel road for 36 km. until reaching the
village of Caño Negro. Here dugout canoes can be hired for exploration of the
marsh area. (Given the nature of the principal kind of habitat protected at Caño
Negro, there are at present no hiking trails.)
Buses from San José service both the towns of Upala and Los Chiles. There is
a bus that runs from Upala to Caño Negro.
Fishing: The Río Frio is just now becoming discovered by vacationing
fishermen, and although it doesn't yet have much infrastructure available, it
has good fishing for snook, guapote, alligator gar, drum, and huge tarpon (up
to 90 kg., by some sight estimates). The legal fishing season for this area is
from September 1 to March 31.
Climate: Daytime temperatures are quite warm and it is usually humid. Although
Caño Negro is on the Atlantic side of Costa Rica, it is far enough inland in
the northern plains to have a weather pattern with a short but distinct dry
season from January to April.
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